Kalleske “Buckboard” Durif 2013, or, I’m looking for a word


There’s a word.


There’s another one.


Yep, third one’s a charm.

Durifs aren’t known for their subtlety, but ultimately therein lies the joy. They’re full-bodied to the point of bursting, like your favourite busty burlesque dancer, and this one was no exception.

Similarly, I’ve only ever known Durifs to smell awesome. And this one didn’t disappoint – there was all the pepper and mulberry and big-wine-ness a nose could wish for.

The palette was juicy and smooth on the way down – the liquorice and dark nature of the beast belying the high alcohol content superbly – then at the end there was a not-altogether-unpleasant chewiness from the tannin, like chomping down on a blackberry.

You can probably sense a “but”, and you’d be right. But it’s a pretty minor one in my book: the only issue with this drop is that it is so intense it’s not likely to end up being your go to Sunday BBQ quaff-er. Like proper fancy dark chocolate this is so intense it’s almost hard to believe it’s not good for you, and therefore best enjoyed in small doses. Small, but delicious doses.

Price: $24

Cognitive bias:  Glass half full

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